Gas Engine Tips

#1
Greetings,

Here are a few tips and suggestions for handling gas and gas engines.

Ethanol is in most gasoline that you buy today. It's a nasty product that can eat away at carburators and leave deposits and varnish behind. Even fuel injected machines can suffer if left to sit long enough. It is hydroscopic so it absorbs water which further erodes and ruins carburated engines.

1. If using ethanol fuel, try to run the engine dry (if it has a fuel shutoff lever) when you are done using the equipment. Some carburators make it easy to quickly drain the float bowl.

2. There is a website that tracks ethanol free fueling stations. https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html The map will tell you if any are available in your area. Ethanol free fuel, while more expensive, will not damage your carburators and small engines the same way that ethanol gas does. It can last longer in storage as well if treated with a stabilizer.

3. Fuel stabilizer helps keep fuel decent for a few months, but does not help much with the ethanol. I have had stabilized fuel last for a year, but I try not to since it can absorb a lot of water in the ethanol. As gas ages it loses its octane rating, which can cause engine knock.

4. Purchasing a fuel pump (battery operated or otherwise) is a great way to transfer fuel from those new horrible epa compliant gas cans, or to equipment that is difficult to pour into. I use this product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2X0K/ and it pumps at a good rate.

5. Rotating your gas supply into your vehicles is a good way to keep fresh gas on hand. The fuel pump will help make transfer much easier, and you don't lose money on bad gas. I do so about once every 6 months.

6. For two stroke small engines, try to run ethanol free only. You can buy ethanol-free pre-mixed cans of gas at power equipment stores and on amazon as well. These engines are very suspectable to damage from ethanol fuel, and a lot of them are ran infrequently (weed eaters, chain saws).

7. If you have small equipment that is suffering from carburator issues and you don't feel up to fixing it, many towns have a small equipment repair shop. These shops are kept fairly busy by the constant repair costs of ethanol fuel. Often you can get your equipment up and running for not that much money. Motorcycle shops are very busy in the springtime due to failed carburators. The culperit? Ethanol fuel.

8. Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement can be used in diesel fuel to prevent gelling in the winter. It also contains lubricant for injector pumps that can wear out due to low sulfur diesel that is supplied in the US. Not all diesel sold contains winterizing agents. If you use it year round you don't have to worry about whether you added it or not. Sitting equipment will not suffer from gelled diesel if you use it year-round.

9. If you are sick of the new style gas can spouts, you can still purchase the old style online: https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Pour-Gas-Can-Replacement-Spout/dp/B06WRRXG1X

10. If you don't want to mess with purchasing caps, the most reliable gas can I've found are the NoSpill gas cans. They are sold all over and are very easy to operate. They do come at a price however.

11. Spark plugs last a long time. You don't have to waste money on purchasing new ones each season. Air Filters and Oil are great preventive maintenance however. Oil filters as well if your item uses it.
 
#2
I am pretty savvy mechanic. You sir are right about the ethanol. It does makes thing miserable and hard to work with. Stabil is a good additive for storing fuel for a short time. Berrymans chemo tool is better. It cuts down on the chaos new fuels can hash out and at the same time destroyes moisture. It also makes sure carbs don't mess up.

As far a diesel Berrymans makes something for them also but there is a brand of which I forgot the name but it does the same thing. It removes moisture and doesn't allow jell to form. Long stored diesel does have another draw back. It grows algae. The other brand also keeps this from happening by removing the moisture and bacteria that allows the algae to grow.

There are ways you can store fuel but if you don't do it right you are in for a nightmare. As far as running the fuel out of engines before storage is a misconecption. Diesel engines will have to be primed and the longer it goes without fuel the harder it gets. Gasoline engines have carbs and carbs sweat in certain conditions. When it sweats moisture builds inside and the water will corrode the bowl and the jets. Hence a new one will have to be bought or it will have to be cleaned with Berrymans gallon parts cleaner that has the vat inside and a air nozzle set 5 psi. It is not something you want to do trust me. Always leave a little fuel in the bowl with carb cleaner before you store away. You can drain it out and spray it out before you use it again.